Monday, July 11, 2011

Japanese Obon Festival

This past weekend we immersed ourselves in Japanese culture while dancing in the annual Obon Festival. My grandmother and mom flew into town just for the event and all my sisters didn't dare miss out. It was such a great experience learning the folk dances and sharing that piece of history with my grandma. My grandma loves Japanese dancing and some of the dances were even from our "home" island of Kyushu. What a great way to remember our ancestors, celebrate their lives and traditions, and pass on family heritage. Besides, after going to Japan and buying yucatas (summer kimonos), we couldn't resist the chance to dress up and learn the art of tying an Obi. Here are some pictures and highlights of the night.





















Sunday, May 22, 2011

Sasebo: May 19 - 21

The whole purpose for our trip to Japan was to see where my grandmother grew up and to learn about her history. Our travels finally took us to her hometown of Sasebo where we were warmly greeted by close friends who treated us to a wonderful time in Sasebo. As a harbor city Sasebo is now home to a US military base and we could easily see the American influences in the city. It didn't take away from the historic aspects of the city although everything from the city hall to the train station was burnt to the ground during the US raid on Sasebo during WWII. During our walking tour of the city, my grandmother recountered her experiences that day and got to learn a lot more about her childhood while she gave us a tour of where her home once stood and where she went to school.

A good portion of our time was also spent shopping. My grandmother raved about the shopping Sasebo and she was right - she got all sorts of cute clothes and we all ended up spending far too much money on souveniers, but it is a once in a lifetime trip after all so we've justified the expenditures. Hopefully our husband's will understand :).

Here are some of the highlights of Sasebo:
1. Tour of where Grandma Michiko grew up
2. Karioke - Japanese take their karioke very serious and we found countless bars around the city so we spent the evening out with my grandmothers friends singing the night away.
3. Harbor cruise & city overlook - Sasebo is know for its 200+ islands. I have no idea how any ship can navigate the harbor we were getting so confused but it's a beautiful city.
4. Dinner with friends - we had Japanese style Chinese food and a traditional Japanese meal the other day. It was so much fun spending the days and evenings with my grandmothers friends and seeing her have such a great time. Her best friend from her childhood was amoung the group and they have known each other since elementary school.
5. Shopping - we have shopped our entire way through Japan and our large suitcases and extended duffle bags are proof of that.
6. Sasebo Burgers & Tonkatsu: both are amazing and so delicious here.
7. Church: we visited the local military branch and I always love knowing that you can go to Church anywhere in the world and count on it to fill just like home.
8. Visiting a local junior high with Shinobu (my grandmother's best friend's son). We got to see what Japanese school was like and meet a few of the students.

Here are some of the pictures from our three days here:
My grandmother's first elementary school from before WWII.

Hachinoya: the same pastry shop where my grandma and her friends would get treats during high school.

Proof I made it to Sasebo.

The property where my great grandmother lived with my grandmother following WWII. The building was rebuilt twice I belive and served as a boarding house that my great grandmother ran before it was sold and repurposed as a parking lot. I wish the house were still there and we could see it, but we'll just have to imagine the old Japanese architecture.

My grandmother's friends. Her best friend from high school, Fukiko, is shown on the right side. She along with Miyoko (pictured on the far left) drove us all around Sasebo and we couldn't be more grateful for treating us so kindly. It was wonderful getting to know them.

The overlook over Sasebo harbor.

Karioke bar.

Grandma Michiko dancing and singing the night away.

Sasebo Harbor Cruise.

Hiroshima & Miyajima: May 18

We left Kyoto Wednesday morning for Hiroshima. Alisha was in charge of planning our itinerary for the day and we started by taking a ferry to Miyajima. The island is known for its shrine whose Torii gate sits out in the water and during high tide it appears as though it is floating. We got there when it was low tide though which meant we could walk out to the gate and get a closer look. Alisha, Katrina and I also spent a couple hours exploring the island by bicycle. It was so relaxing riding around the small village, stopping at the shops, eating fried Oysters (delicious) and wandering along the sea shore.




After Miyajima we went to the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum. The museum and its surrounding park are located within a few hundred meters from where the atomic bomb struck the city. All of the buildings and individuals within the property were immediately vaporized. Walking through the museum we learned about the effects of the bomb, the lifestyle of those living in the city, saw old clothing and photographs, and gained a greated understanding and appreciation for the world we live in now - particularly as my grandmother recountered her personal experiences during the war.

The building shown in the picture below is called the Hiroshima Dome and when the bomb hit, the dome and the remaining metal/structural portions of the building survived while everything else was destroyed. The peace memorial stands as a reminder to the world about the destructions of nuclear weapons and the grounds also includes an eternal flame that will always stay lit until there are no more nuclear weapons in the world.

Kyoto & Nara: May 17

Today was day two with our own personal drivers and tour guides around Kyoto. We've decided that this is the one and only way to travel where you get private tours, are dropped off and picked up right at the entrance and they patiently wait while you shop as long as you want. We were quite spoiled in Kyoto.

For day two we left early in the morning for Nara which is about 100 years older than Kyoto. We started our morning at the Joruriji Temple.


We then made our way to the Todaiji Temple where we first walked through a park with wild deer wandering around. I think it was a natural preserve and we spent a couple minutes feeding them. You had to be careful though. Once you ran out of food they started following you around and would try to nibble on your shirt.


Now about Todaiji Temple - this structure is the largest all wooden building in the world and also houses the largest bronze gilded statue of buddha. It was quite impressive. While walking around the grounds we saw the cutest school children on field trips. Each class has a different color hat - what a great idea for keeping track of the children and they looked so adorable.



Our taxi drivers then recommended a delicious place for lunch. We took pictures outside so that we'd know where to find it when we return because the food was so good. Here's what my plate looked like.


After lunch our next stop was Kiyomizu Temple which also included a shrine known as the love shrine. Here it is believed that if you can walk from one stone to another housed on the property of the shrine you will be blessed with love. We also learned about Shinto prayers and our taxi drivers aka private tour guides walked us through the rituals. It was a great learning experience.


We met some college students while we were there as well who were spending the day dressed up out on the town. Hopefully we'll find an excuse this year to wear the Yucatas (summer kimonos) we're bringing home with us.


There was also an old cemetery by the temple that crept up the entire hillside. It was amazing how large the cemetery was and how many stones lined the hillside. This is common across Japan and we've seen numerous cemeteries in local towns, but none as large as this one.

Monday, May 16, 2011

Kyoto: May 16

We started our morning taking a 14 minute Shinkasen train from Osaka to Kyoto. After checking into the hotel we were greeted by drivers who my grandma's friend's friend set-up for us. It was such a wonderful gift and so convenient having our own personal drivers all day. We wouldn't have been able to fit everything in otherwise.

Our first stop was the Golden Pavilion or Kinkakuji Temple. It is a 3 story building where the top 2 stories are gilded in gold leaf. It sits on a reflection pond and was absolutely beautiful.



We then went to the Nishiki Food Market and shopping center to pick up more gifts to take back home. We came across a crepe street car and couldn't resist. The crepes are so yummy and filled with fresh fruit, custard and whipped cream. Not necessarily healthy but something sweet does help balance all of the salty food we've been having.

Our next stop was the Sanjusangendo Temple. This is another Buddhist Temple that has 1001 gold leafed statues inside. Photos aren't allowed inside so here are some outside. The building was constructed in 1266 and remains in tact today. It was pretty amazing.




We then went to the Fushimi Inari Tashi Shrine. This is a shinto shrine where Tori gates span all the way up a hillside and it takes 2 hours to walk through all of them. We only went part way and it was so pretty. Just imagine an entire walkway lined with these gates.



Our drivers then took us around the Gion District of Kyoto and explained the history of the city. The Gion District is where the Gaikos (also known as Geishas) and Maikos live, practice and work in the local tea houses. We later went to dinner on the Pontocho Street, known for it's high-end tea houses, and we spoted a few Gaikos entertaining some businessmen. Here is a photo of the lantern lit street where we ate dinner.


Our drivers made reservations for us since the tea houses restrict access to who can eat there and it was a really nice traditional japanese meal. Included in the meanl was tempura fish - whole fish fried in batter. I ate one whole one and then could only handle eating the bottom halves for the rest. Something about eating a fish head with eyes just didn't sit well with me, but it was surprisingly tasty if you could get over the mind block of what you were eating.

Osaka & Kyoto: May 15

We started our morning traveling by train and metro to the Aoi Festival in Kyoto. The festival occues only once a year and involves a procession through the Imperial Palace.




After the festival we took the subway and then a street car to the Tenryuji Temple on the western part of the city. The temple is known for it's amazing mural that depicts a dragon coming out of the inside ceiling of the temple. We couldn't take pictures inside though so you'll have to use your imagination.


We spent a good portion of the afternoon shopping in the outdoor markets. We found all sorts of souveniers and traditional Japanese items to bring back home with us.


Once we returned to Osaka we went back to Dutonbori Street for tacoyaki. Taco means octopus in Japanese and yaki refers to anything grilled so tacoyaki is octopus cook on a grill and in this case they were like savory donuts filled with octopus. I have now deemed the tacoyuki, but atleast I tried one. The flavor was good, but I couldn't handle the chewy, crunchy texture nor the sight of tenticles.




Here's a picture of our entire group including Yuca, the daughter of a friend of my grandma's friend. It was so much fun spending the past two days with her and she was an awesome tourguide. She is from Osaka and is currently studying at cosmetology school and spent the weekend with us. Hopefully, she'll come visit us in America some time.

Saturday, May 14, 2011

Osaka Day 1: May 14

We left Tokyo this morning and boarded a 3 hours train ride to Osaka. By bus the trip would take 9 hours, but the bullet trains can reach almost 300 miles per hour so we quickly made our way to Okasa. The trains or Shinkasen travel so fast that you can easily get motion sick just looking out the window if you don't focus on an object in the distance. The trains in Japan are so clean and nice. It's a great way to travel around the country.


All over the train and metro stations you'll find kiosk selling snacks and bento boxes. A bento box contains an assortment of food and treats organized in a little box. Here's the one we shared. The most unique item to us in our box was octopus tenticles.


After we checked into the Hotel Nikko Osaka my the daughter, Yaku, of a friend of my grandma's friend met us to give us a tour of the city. She was so kind and gracious even though she said she has never walked so much in one day. We went all over the place and a few times back and forth to the same places. Our first stop was the Osaka Tower where we got a 360 degree view of the city.


Here is the tower behind Katrina and Me.


After the tower we went to the Doguyasuji shopping area which is like an indoor market with shops and booths doing countless alleys. The alleys connect to the larger shopping centers and malls as well as the famous Dotonbori street where you are supposed to eat until you drop. This is where you can order large crab legs from street vendors and try some puffer fish. We didn't have time tonight, but hope to make it back tomorrow.






Around 9pm we found a restaurant where we could order modanyaki and okonmiyaki. Cooked right on the table in front of you, similar to tepanyaki, I had pork modanyaki. It was so yummy and must be slightly healthy considering the majority of the meal is cooked cabbage. Although, the likely unhealthy sauce on top does make it taste so great.